Salep

Salep is a hot beverage drunk almost entirely during the winter. It is either milk or water, which is sweetened and thickened with a starch from the root of several species of wild orchids. It is a thick liquid, mostly drunk in commercial establishments rather than at home. Today it is more common in the large cities, and is especially common at breakfast, but is not much made at home any more.

Milk

Drunk both hot and cold, for enjoyment as well as for its health benefits. It is now sold with the addition of fruits such as bananas and strawberries. Just as such flavored milks are sold at shops, they are now available commercially packaged.

II. Cold Drinks

Ayran

At the mention of traditional Turkish drinks, the first to come to mind is ayran. Its ease of preparation has meant that it is common even in the most remote corners of the country. In the villages it is unthinkable to eat the staple bulgur pilav unaccompanied by ayran, or to fail to serve ayran to a guest. It is almost unimaginable to take a rest in the shade after hard, hot work in the fields and not drink a glass of cold ayran. Even in the cities this is the case, standing and eating a döner sandwich during the lunch break, ayran is practically the only choice.

Ayran has practically become a symbol of Turkey, because yogurt has spread from Turkey throughout the world. It is the product of an economy based on animal husbandry. Just like yogurt, ayran has also entered European culture. In addition, sweetened and fruit yogurts are made in Europe.

The healthful benefits of yogurt are now well known; ayran is a healthful drink for all the same reasons. It has recently become available packaged in cartons and plastic cups, and is drunk throughout the country.

In certain regions, ayran is churned and is served with a head of foam. For example, a traveler who finds himself in Susurluk near Balıkesir can’t go without having a glass of their famous, rich churned ayran with its characteristic foam.

In Anatolia, ayran is traditionally made in a churn called a “yayık.” Today this tradition is disappearing, continued only by certain nomadic groups and in some villages.

Boza

Boza is a popular thick, sweet-sour drink popular among the Turkic peoples. During Selçuk times it was known as bekni, and made of millet, wheat, corn, rice or barley. During that period it was left to mature in clay vases. Boza is a seasonal beverage, drunk in the winter, and in Turkey is made chiefly from millet. One of the favorite sounds on silent snowy winter nights is the cry of the bozacı as he walks the streets at night selling his boza.

Historical records show us that boza has been made in Central Asia and Eastern Anatolia since 400 B.C. It was drunk in ancient Greece and Rome as well. Today, in addition to Turkey, it is made in the Crimea, the Volga region, the Caucasus, Turkistan, the Balkans, Hungary, Egypt, Arabia and Iran. Ottoman records tell us that in the 16th century it was mostly made in Edirne, Bursa, Amasya and Mardin. Evliya Çelebi wrote that 17th century Istanbul was full of boza shops. Because of its nutritious and warming nature, boza was also much used in the army.

Sherbets

Before the spread of fruit juices in our country, cold drinks called “sherbets” were very popular.

In the old days, a sherbet called Lohusa şerbeti was served, especially at births. (Loğusa < Gr.lehousa, a woman who has just given birth). The same sherbet was also served at engagements and the söz kesilme, the traditional “promise” between a man and a woman prior to their actual engagement. There were many different varieties of sherbet; some that appeared in the poetry of Mevlana include honey sherbet, rosewater sherbet, sugar sherbet,lütüf şerbeti, tanrı şerbeti, nardenk şerbeti.

Sirkencübin, made from honey and vinegar, was drunk both to quench thirst and medicnally.

Another sherbet that was once common was demirhindi (tamarind) but it is rare today.

Today the sherbet culture has been replaced by commercial fruit juices, but it still survives today in some Anatolian villages, where sherbets are made from various herbs, including liquorice root.

Fruit Juices

Certain fruit juices have been drunk in Turkey since ancient times. Some of them are know as syrups, like rose syrup and sour cherry syrup. In the 9th century, şira (grape must, sometimes spiced) or fruit juices were known as both çakır and süçik. Grape juice was the most commonly drunk fruit juice. Apricot juice was also drunk, and was known as uhak. Today şira is drunk where viniculture is common, but it has disappeared from the large cities.

Today all sorts of fruit juices are available by means of modern fruit presses; in Adana sugar cane juice is sold. These are now available for home kitchens and nearly any fruit or vegetable may be juiced. Carrot, grape, apple, orange, watermelon, pomegranate, sour cherry, apricot peach and other juices are available commercially or can be pressed at home.

The Turkish world of drinks is now being invaded by carbonated drinks from the west such as Coca-cola, Pepsi, Fanta etc. Although they are unhealthy because of their carbonation and fattening due to their excessive sugar content, they are heavily advertised and very popular now, especially during the summer.

Today all sorts of fruit juices are available by means of modern fruit presses; in Adana sugar cane juice is sold. These are now available for home kitchens and nearly any fruit or vegetable may be juiced. Carrot, grape, apple, orange, watermelon, pomegranate, sour cherry, apricot peach and other juices are available commercially or can be pressed at home.

There are sour as well as sweet fruit juices. Lemonade is known the world over but a common drink in Turkey, sour cherry juice, is new to many visitors from other countries, and find it delicious. Turks who live abroad also tend to drink a lot of sour cherry juice when they visit home. Historians also inform us that a sour fruit juice called çifşeng çakır was drunk in the 9th century to “cool” the body, in accordance with ancient health practices.

I believe that traditional Turkish drinks are something that should be protected and encouraged as much as our traditional cuisine. These are part of our national identity. With modern manufacturing methods and refrigeration, it would be easy to make and preserve them. The protection of this tradition would be helpful both from the standpoint of their unique flavors, their potential draw for tourists and as a healthful alternative.

Kaynaklar

* Teaching Staff, Ankara University, Faculty of Educational Sciences.